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Welcome Folks....
this blog is for the ones who likes to take their eagerness to their peak.....

so you can DO IT YOURSELF!!!

So we will be posting techno related posts from mobile development to Robotics and much more for your intrest...

We will b providing you best contents soon.. so stay at touch...

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555 Pocket Keyboard

Hello every body, this is a 555 timer-musical-keyboard project, with exact sounds of the key, in this project, the keys don't give exact notes, so i designed a few things, added a few potentiometers to the circuit which helps to adjust to the exact notes you have in a normal keyboard...

You can see that the sound created by the keyboard is quite nice, and try to recognize the song i played in the video...

Before You start making this project, you should know the basic electronics properties, equipment and should know how to solder/making circuits...

Because i will not show the making of the circuit in detail, just the circuit diagram, or if you are too lazy to build the project on a perfboard like i did, i have also given the PCB design on an eagle file, you can re-check the design, because i haven't added small things like on/off button in the design, you can add it as per your requirements...

So here comes the 1st step to build this 555 based keyboard...

Step 1: Components

The basic components required to build the keyboard are :

-555 Timer

-100k (or heigher) Potentiometer

-4k7 (or lower) Potentiometer

-10k Potentiometer

- 2.2k resistors {12 peices}

-4.7k resistor

-8 Ohm Speaker

-two-way slide switch

-an LED + 470E resistor

-14 micro switch

-100nF capacitor

-10uF capacitor

-9v Battery (with connector)

-perfboard (10cm by 15cm)

Other extra components which i have used -

-Male + Female stereo Connectors [to connect the board with the Spearker]

-Glue [to stick the speaker and the battery on the board]

Step 2: Breadboarding

In this step, you must see if you have all the components with you and you can do all the connections correctly, i wil not tell you about breadboarding in detail, you can google it, or you can just look it from this link

[This picture in this step, of the breadboarded circuit, is taken from this link]

www.instructables.com/id/555-Pocket-SynthKeyboard/

i have uploaded the circuit diagram with the breadboarded circuit, you can check out the detail of bredboarding this project from the link above...

This is just to make sure that you are comfortable with the circuit, plus breadboarding doesnt take too much of your time, you can just put up 4-5 micro switches to check the working, no need of using all 14 swtiches in the breadboard... as you ll have to take them out while building the circuit...

555 keyboard.sch740 KB

Step 3: Component Placement - Planning

As you can see, that i have used a big board, just so that i can have my speaker and the battery on the board...

Plus i have placed the switches with wide gap, so that only 1 button should get pushed with my finger, not more...

You can make your board however you want, you just have to be sure that you havent made any changes in the circuit...

You can use any smaller speaker, any buzzer...

or you can just use the eagle circuit board design and design your PCB yo

555 synth.brd74 KB

Step 4: Solder your components

You can make the circuit in the following sequence :

1- fix the keys

2-add resistors to the keys

3-fix the 555

4-build circuit around 555

5-connect the 555 with the keys

6-connect the speaker

7-connect the batter lead

8-check all the connections once again

9-join the battery and check the working

Step 5: Tune it and Play it

You can use a case for your keyboard, which will protect it, i didnt want to use the case because in this prefboard, there is a lot of space in the sided to hold the pcb without touching the circuit, so i skipped that part...

Now when you are prepared with your circuit, you might want to tune it first, the 100k potentiometer can be adjusted in such a way that the last 9 micro switch, or i should say that higher pitch keys [close to the 100k potentiometer] must sound synchronized, and then the 10th and 11th can be tuned with 10k potentiometer after tuning those 9 keys, after tuning them, you can tune the 12-13-14th keys with the second 10k pot.

Now you are ready to play your own made KEYBOARD...

If you have any other questions, then you are welcome to ask them here...

Thank you...! enjoy..

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Super Awesome NES Advantage Lamp With Options

Children of the 80's and 90's here it is... one of the most awesome desk lamps you have, and will ever, come across. Introducing... the 1987 NES Advantage Lamp (or as some affectionately called her, "the disadvantage").

I am all about options. So with this build I tried to break up this project into three sections from easiest to hardest. You basically have the non-soldered ending all the way to the potential addition of a USB Charging Port and Push-button on/off switch. What geek wouldn't love this lamp?!

It's with some apprehension I show you my methods for this in that I sell these lamps (and others like them) in my Etsy shop here:https://www.etsy.com/shop/FunEclecticHF

Step 1: What You'll Need...

Items you'll need:

• NES Advantage Controller (preferably not working...) - Found mine on eBay for about $6.50
• Thift Store Lamp (for parts) - Average cost at Goodwill is $2.99
• Phillips Head Screw Driver
• Electrical Tape and/or Glue
• Single Pole on/off switch (some thrift store lamps, like the one used here, already come with this)

Optional Items:

• SP/ST (Short shaft) Non-Momentary Push-button On/Off Switch (Radio Shack) - $2.49 to $3.99
  • I ended up using a short shaft, SPST switch from Home Depot since the rocker switches and other push button ones from Radio Shack didn't work out.
• USB Cell Phone Charger for the wall - Free to $2 online
• Electrical Wire
• Solder and Soldering Iron
• Pliers
• Strong Glue (ala E6000 or JB Weld)
• Dremel Tool with a Cutt Off Wheel
• Hobby Knife or Box Cutter

Step 2: Careful Demolition...

1. First you'll need to remove the plate metal bottom from the NES Controller.
   • Remove the bottom rubber feet to access the screws.
2. Second would be to remove the circuit board from the NES Controller.
   • You may need to use the pliers to break the board out (I originally was going to leave the potentiometers attached for sake of time and laziness, but later had to take them out).
   • Be sure to keep track of the rubber button connections and all the parts for the joystick (except for the actual joy stick).
3. Now either glue the buttons into place, or if you plan to use some of them for one of the optional steps then replace the rubber button pads and tape the buttons and pads into place.

Step 3: Lamp Parts...

1. Start by ripping the bottom cloth off of the lamp's base (if it has carpeting). Otherwise remove the screws, or crack the bottom plastic in order to get the bottom off.
   • There may also be a weight that needs to be removed (and used as a doorstop and/or paper weight).
   • Feel free to paint the lamp or make any changes you want (you can see I painted mine).
2. Take your pliers and unscrew the nut and washer that hold the lamp to the base.
3. You may need to unhook some wires to get the main lamp part free (be sure to make note of how the wire nuts are and what wires connect where and how).
4. Once the lamp arm and it's cord are free I took the housing for the joystick (remember I told you to save everything) and drilled a hole for the lamp wires to go though.
   • Depending on the shaft of the lamp arm, you may be able to fit part of it through as well to attach a nut, or bend some of the metal at the bottom of the base, to secure it to the joystick housing.
   • If you can do this then it will be easy to reassemble the controller and your lamp be attached where you want it.
5. At this point you can rewire the lamp to its original connections (if you haven't already).

Step 4: You are done! (If you are boring and have no sense of adventure...)

Alrighty then! You are done. That was quick and simple... Simply reattach the plate for the bottom of the controller. If your lamp doesn't have an on/off switch already attached to its cord, then grab your single pole on/off switch and follow the instructions for cutting the cord and attaching this switch.

***If you are adventurous... and are thirsty for more... then don't reattach the bottom plate just yet. Continue to the next step (do not pass "GO", do not collect $200 (yet)). :-)

Step 5: Option #1 Cool On/Off Button...

Here's where we separate the men from the boys...

1. Figure out which button(s) you want as your on/off switch for the lamp.
   • If I were smarter I would have chosen to use the 1-2 selector as the on/off switch, but alas I took the low road and tried using a SPST rocker switch that I mounted under the Start/Select buttons (that didn't work).
     • All Rocker and Push Button on/off switches were too thick/tall so I finally went with one that would replace one of the potentiometers on the original controller with a push button on/off from Home Depot (the truth, not a shameless plug or bribe to win the contest).
2. Take and cut a small portion of one side of your lamp wire, exposing the wire.
   • Take two small sections of your wire and solder one to one end of the wire and the other wire to the other side.
   • Then solder one wire to one post of your SP/ST, Non-Momentary, Push Button On/Off Switch and solder the other wire to the other post on the switch.
     • Make sure that none of the connections touch each other. This is where I applied some electrical tape to the connections.
3. Once everything is soldered and connected/mounted then you can reattach the bottom plate.

** Now if you are just a glutton for punishment... then do not reattach the bottom plate and feet. Continue to the next optional step, but you better hurry before you talk yourself out of it!

Step 6: Option #2 Adding a USB Charging Dock...

Wow, if you are still with me up to this point, you are hardcore! For this step you will need the phone USB wall charger. The USB Charger I used was for the US standards. International standards and wiring will probably be different.

1. You can take a Dremel tool and cut the case off of the USB board.
   • The two posts will more than likely fall off and you will see the solder spots on the circuit board.
   • The other option (and potentially easier one) is to just leave the USB board in its case.
     • This will depend on how your USB charger input appears and its relation to the outlet prongs.
2. Cut two more additional pieces of wire and solder one to each prong (or solder spot on the board).
3. Then solder (or wire nut) the ends connected to the UBS board to the connections you made earlier for the on/off switch.
4. Now the hard part... deciding where you want you charger port to be... and will it fit?
   • Once decided you will measure and mark out the spot and carefully cut that out with a hobby knife and/or Dremel tool.
5. Glue the charger port to the underneath/inside of the controller and make sure it sets.
   • You'll want to use some strong glue, like JB Weld or E6000 to adhere it in place.
6. Once the glue has set, be sure to test the lamp using the external switch, the on/off switch (if you wired one) and then the USB charger port.
7. If everything works fine, then reattach the bottom plate and the rubber feet.

*** Note: I tried wiring the USB Board below the on/off switch. It simply didn't work. I had to wire it to the lamp wire connections. Doing this, the lamp and the USB Charging Port cannot be used at the same time. Honestly, it could be a lot worse. One or both of the extras we've added could just not work, and all this work be for nothing. Turn the lamp on via the push button on/off switch and look at the bright side (pun intended). :-D

Step 7: Let There Be Light! (and closing remarks)

I know what you are thinking... yes, I could have used a 3-wire appliance cable since I have a lamp and a USB charging unit on the same circuit. Honestly though, it's no different if using an outlet extension splitter and plugging in the USB charger and the lamp into it.

Also, the external switch is just so in case the SP/ST switch ever goes out I have a backup that will still operate the lamp. Keep in mind that the external switch will always need to be on so that the USB charging port will work, and the SP/SP switch will effectively be the on/off switch.

Lastly there HAS to be something I could have done with the LEDs, maybe have one of them turn on when the charger port it in use, SOMETHING! At this stage in my life circuit board scare me because of my unfamiliarity with soldering components. Look at it, as this Instructable showed you how to make something cool. It gave you options, but also left room for improvement and is open to constructive criticism (keyword being "constructive").

So there you have it... one of the coolest lamps I have ever made.

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Single digit numitron clock

Numitrons are neat display devices similar to nixie tubes but designed for much lower voltages. Numitrons are basically incandescent displays in which filaments create the segments.

They have a retro look that i liked so much. I bought 6x IV-9 russian numitrons in ebay, they were about 3$ each, they're pretty cheap!
At that time i didn't know what to do with them, but then i thought about a clock. Using software from a single LED display clock i made this impressive numitron clock.

Step 1: Program the PIC

The original purpose of the software was to drive a single common-anode LED display rather than a numitron, but either way works.
The software was modified to flash the digits so the HHMM LEDs wouldn't be necessary. Also the software was modified so if the tens of hours is 0 then it is not displayed.
Moreover, the software does not check the input values so entering the wrong time such as 67:85 would be accepted, but eventually the clock will start resetting the digits correctly.

The clock operates off a PIC 16F84A using a program written by David Tait (software is further down this page). The crystal oscillator for the clock is a 4MHz crystal.

I think another microcontroller such as PIC16F628A could also work fine.

numitron.hex6 KB

clock.asm9 KB

Step 2: The circuit

After testing on the breadboard,  the clock works fine, with the current crystal the clock comes forward a minute each 3 days, with a precision one it can be solved, but it's good enough for me; because setting time is easy.
You can see the test video below and download the eagle schematic to modify it.

Since numitron displays are just complex bulbs, it could be a problem to drive them from the processor, but in this case, it's not a problem:
The PIC16F84A can source or sink 25mA per I/O pin.

But each port has a limit:

Maximum current sunk by PORTA-80 mA
Maximum current sourced by PORTA-50 mA

Maximum current sunk by PORTB-150 mA
Maximum current sourced by PORTB-100 mA

With IV-9/IV-16 each segment draws 20mA, but be careful if you choose another numitron!

Single digit numitron clock - Step #2(516x290) 29 KB

numitron w.sch463 KB

pinomelean.lbr20 KB

Step 3: PCB design

The board measures about 4x3cm (1.6x1.2inches).
it could be way smaller with all components in smd version and onto a double-layer board; but the design i made is the easier/cheaper one.

The board i made the clock with was later modified and optimized.
I used 4 resistors for the HHMM LEDs when a common resistor would do the trick.
I also used a header jumper to switch on or off the numitron, but it turned out that the microcontroller sank the current through ''off'' pins, dimly lighting up some segments.

You can use the PDF to make the circuit with the toner transfer method (see http://www.instructables.com/id/PCB-making-guide/)
Or order it with the .BRD file.

numitron w.brd87 KB

numitron w.pdf15 KB

Step 4: Populating the PCB

After drilling the holes and tinning the pads, it's time to populate The PCB.

You'll need the following components:
-PIC16F84A microcontroller (or compatible)
-18 pin DIL socket
-IV-9 or IV-16 numitron (or one of your choice, but check pinout!)
-4 LEDs (just check if they fit)
-4MHz crystal
-2x 470ohm 1206 SMD resistors
-1x 1K5 1206 SMD resistor
-2x male header, or the power input you want
-An SMD capacitor, just for filtering, no matter the value.

First solder the wire jumpers and the SMD components, then the rest. Do it as shown in the diagram (the .BRD file)
Solder just the socket without the PIC in!

If you're using IV-9 or IV-16 numitron, bend the leads as shown in the picture. If you use another numitron, see the datacheet and check if it is pin-compatible, if not, you can edit the PCB or bed the leads as needed.

Step 5: Ready to use

After plugging it, it should display 12:00, set the time by pressing the button when the digit you want to change  is being displayed.
If you press the button during power on, it will enter in test mode.

I can't wait to see how you've done.
If you have any problem or doubt, feel free t ask me.
If someone wants the clock in the video, i would accept 20$.

If you've liked this instructable, please vote me for the Supercharged, 123D Circuits and Spring's Coming contests.

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