555 Pocket Keyboard

Hello every body, this is a 555 timer-musical-keyboard project, with exact sounds of the key, in this project, the keys don't give exact notes, so i designed a few things, added a few potentiometers to the circuit which helps to adjust to the exact notes you have in a normal keyboard...

You can see that the sound created by the keyboard is quite nice, and try to recognize the song i played in the video...

Before You start making this project, you should know the basic electronics properties, equipment and should know how to solder/making circuits...

Because i will not show the making of the circuit in detail, just the circuit diagram, or if you are too lazy to build the project on a perfboard like i did, i have also given the PCB design on an eagle file, you can re-check the design, because i haven't added small things like on/off button in the design, you can add it as per your requirements...

So here comes the 1st step to build this 555 based keyboard...

Step 1: Components

The basic components required to build the keyboard are :

-555 Timer

-100k (or heigher) Potentiometer

-4k7 (or lower) Potentiometer

-10k Potentiometer

- 2.2k resistors {12 peices}

-4.7k resistor

-8 Ohm Speaker

-two-way slide switch

-an LED + 470E resistor

-14 micro switch

-100nF capacitor

-10uF capacitor

-9v Battery (with connector)

-perfboard (10cm by 15cm)

Other extra components which i have used -

-Male + Female stereo Connectors [to connect the board with the Spearker]

-Glue [to stick the speaker and the battery on the board]

Step 2: Breadboarding

In this step, you must see if you have all the components with you and you can do all the connections correctly, i wil not tell you about breadboarding in detail, you can google it, or you can just look it from this link

[This picture in this step, of the breadboarded circuit, is taken from this link]

www.instructables.com/id/555-Pocket-SynthKeyboard/

i have uploaded the circuit diagram with the breadboarded circuit, you can check out the detail of bredboarding this project from the link above...

This is just to make sure that you are comfortable with the circuit, plus breadboarding doesnt take too much of your time, you can just put up 4-5 micro switches to check the working, no need of using all 14 swtiches in the breadboard... as you ll have to take them out while building the circuit...

555 keyboard.sch740 KB

Step 3: Component Placement - Planning

As you can see, that i have used a big board, just so that i can have my speaker and the battery on the board...

Plus i have placed the switches with wide gap, so that only 1 button should get pushed with my finger, not more...

You can make your board however you want, you just have to be sure that you havent made any changes in the circuit...

You can use any smaller speaker, any buzzer...

or you can just use the eagle circuit board design and design your PCB yo

555 synth.brd74 KB

Step 4: Solder your components

You can make the circuit in the following sequence :

1- fix the keys

2-add resistors to the keys

3-fix the 555

4-build circuit around 555

5-connect the 555 with the keys

6-connect the speaker

7-connect the batter lead

8-check all the connections once again

9-join the battery and check the working

Step 5: Tune it and Play it

You can use a case for your keyboard, which will protect it, i didnt want to use the case because in this prefboard, there is a lot of space in the sided to hold the pcb without touching the circuit, so i skipped that part...

Now when you are prepared with your circuit, you might want to tune it first, the 100k potentiometer can be adjusted in such a way that the last 9 micro switch, or i should say that higher pitch keys [close to the 100k potentiometer] must sound synchronized, and then the 10th and 11th can be tuned with 10k potentiometer after tuning those 9 keys, after tuning them, you can tune the 12-13-14th keys with the second 10k pot.

Now you are ready to play your own made KEYBOARD...

If you have any other questions, then you are welcome to ask them here...

Thank you...! enjoy..

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Super Awesome NES Advantage Lamp With Options

Children of the 80's and 90's here it is... one of the most awesome desk lamps you have, and will ever, come across. Introducing... the 1987 NES Advantage Lamp (or as some affectionately called her, "the disadvantage").

I am all about options. So with this build I tried to break up this project into three sections from easiest to hardest. You basically have the non-soldered ending all the way to the potential addition of a USB Charging Port and Push-button on/off switch. What geek wouldn't love this lamp?!

It's with some apprehension I show you my methods for this in that I sell these lamps (and others like them) in my Etsy shop here:https://www.etsy.com/shop/FunEclecticHF

Step 1: What You'll Need...

Items you'll need:

• NES Advantage Controller (preferably not working...) - Found mine on eBay for about $6.50
• Thift Store Lamp (for parts) - Average cost at Goodwill is $2.99
• Phillips Head Screw Driver
• Electrical Tape and/or Glue
• Single Pole on/off switch (some thrift store lamps, like the one used here, already come with this)

Optional Items:

• SP/ST (Short shaft) Non-Momentary Push-button On/Off Switch (Radio Shack) - $2.49 to $3.99
  • I ended up using a short shaft, SPST switch from Home Depot since the rocker switches and other push button ones from Radio Shack didn't work out.
• USB Cell Phone Charger for the wall - Free to $2 online
• Electrical Wire
• Solder and Soldering Iron
• Pliers
• Strong Glue (ala E6000 or JB Weld)
• Dremel Tool with a Cutt Off Wheel
• Hobby Knife or Box Cutter

Step 2: Careful Demolition...

1. First you'll need to remove the plate metal bottom from the NES Controller.
   • Remove the bottom rubber feet to access the screws.
2. Second would be to remove the circuit board from the NES Controller.
   • You may need to use the pliers to break the board out (I originally was going to leave the potentiometers attached for sake of time and laziness, but later had to take them out).
   • Be sure to keep track of the rubber button connections and all the parts for the joystick (except for the actual joy stick).
3. Now either glue the buttons into place, or if you plan to use some of them for one of the optional steps then replace the rubber button pads and tape the buttons and pads into place.

Step 3: Lamp Parts...

1. Start by ripping the bottom cloth off of the lamp's base (if it has carpeting). Otherwise remove the screws, or crack the bottom plastic in order to get the bottom off.
   • There may also be a weight that needs to be removed (and used as a doorstop and/or paper weight).
   • Feel free to paint the lamp or make any changes you want (you can see I painted mine).
2. Take your pliers and unscrew the nut and washer that hold the lamp to the base.
3. You may need to unhook some wires to get the main lamp part free (be sure to make note of how the wire nuts are and what wires connect where and how).
4. Once the lamp arm and it's cord are free I took the housing for the joystick (remember I told you to save everything) and drilled a hole for the lamp wires to go though.
   • Depending on the shaft of the lamp arm, you may be able to fit part of it through as well to attach a nut, or bend some of the metal at the bottom of the base, to secure it to the joystick housing.
   • If you can do this then it will be easy to reassemble the controller and your lamp be attached where you want it.
5. At this point you can rewire the lamp to its original connections (if you haven't already).

Step 4: You are done! (If you are boring and have no sense of adventure...)

Alrighty then! You are done. That was quick and simple... Simply reattach the plate for the bottom of the controller. If your lamp doesn't have an on/off switch already attached to its cord, then grab your single pole on/off switch and follow the instructions for cutting the cord and attaching this switch.

***If you are adventurous... and are thirsty for more... then don't reattach the bottom plate just yet. Continue to the next step (do not pass "GO", do not collect $200 (yet)). :-)

Step 5: Option #1 Cool On/Off Button...

Here's where we separate the men from the boys...

1. Figure out which button(s) you want as your on/off switch for the lamp.
   • If I were smarter I would have chosen to use the 1-2 selector as the on/off switch, but alas I took the low road and tried using a SPST rocker switch that I mounted under the Start/Select buttons (that didn't work).
     • All Rocker and Push Button on/off switches were too thick/tall so I finally went with one that would replace one of the potentiometers on the original controller with a push button on/off from Home Depot (the truth, not a shameless plug or bribe to win the contest).
2. Take and cut a small portion of one side of your lamp wire, exposing the wire.
   • Take two small sections of your wire and solder one to one end of the wire and the other wire to the other side.
   • Then solder one wire to one post of your SP/ST, Non-Momentary, Push Button On/Off Switch and solder the other wire to the other post on the switch.
     • Make sure that none of the connections touch each other. This is where I applied some electrical tape to the connections.
3. Once everything is soldered and connected/mounted then you can reattach the bottom plate.

** Now if you are just a glutton for punishment... then do not reattach the bottom plate and feet. Continue to the next optional step, but you better hurry before you talk yourself out of it!

Step 6: Option #2 Adding a USB Charging Dock...

Wow, if you are still with me up to this point, you are hardcore! For this step you will need the phone USB wall charger. The USB Charger I used was for the US standards. International standards and wiring will probably be different.

1. You can take a Dremel tool and cut the case off of the USB board.
   • The two posts will more than likely fall off and you will see the solder spots on the circuit board.
   • The other option (and potentially easier one) is to just leave the USB board in its case.
     • This will depend on how your USB charger input appears and its relation to the outlet prongs.
2. Cut two more additional pieces of wire and solder one to each prong (or solder spot on the board).
3. Then solder (or wire nut) the ends connected to the UBS board to the connections you made earlier for the on/off switch.
4. Now the hard part... deciding where you want you charger port to be... and will it fit?
   • Once decided you will measure and mark out the spot and carefully cut that out with a hobby knife and/or Dremel tool.
5. Glue the charger port to the underneath/inside of the controller and make sure it sets.
   • You'll want to use some strong glue, like JB Weld or E6000 to adhere it in place.
6. Once the glue has set, be sure to test the lamp using the external switch, the on/off switch (if you wired one) and then the USB charger port.
7. If everything works fine, then reattach the bottom plate and the rubber feet.

*** Note: I tried wiring the USB Board below the on/off switch. It simply didn't work. I had to wire it to the lamp wire connections. Doing this, the lamp and the USB Charging Port cannot be used at the same time. Honestly, it could be a lot worse. One or both of the extras we've added could just not work, and all this work be for nothing. Turn the lamp on via the push button on/off switch and look at the bright side (pun intended). :-D

Step 7: Let There Be Light! (and closing remarks)

I know what you are thinking... yes, I could have used a 3-wire appliance cable since I have a lamp and a USB charging unit on the same circuit. Honestly though, it's no different if using an outlet extension splitter and plugging in the USB charger and the lamp into it.

Also, the external switch is just so in case the SP/ST switch ever goes out I have a backup that will still operate the lamp. Keep in mind that the external switch will always need to be on so that the USB charging port will work, and the SP/SP switch will effectively be the on/off switch.

Lastly there HAS to be something I could have done with the LEDs, maybe have one of them turn on when the charger port it in use, SOMETHING! At this stage in my life circuit board scare me because of my unfamiliarity with soldering components. Look at it, as this Instructable showed you how to make something cool. It gave you options, but also left room for improvement and is open to constructive criticism (keyword being "constructive").

So there you have it... one of the coolest lamps I have ever made.

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DIY handmade Hexapod with arduino (Hexdrake)

Hello, I,m David and in this instructable I`ll show how I made this hexapod whose name is Hexdrake.

Since I was 16 I became interested in electronic and later in robotics. After getting some level and programming skills using arduino I decided to build a robot, but not a simple robot with one pair of wheels, something more interesting. I liked the idea of having a hexapod but did not have much money to buy one.

So I built a low cost 2DOF hexapod made with hand-cut wood and Sg90 servos.

Step 1: Designing the parts and making the templates

I designed the pieces according to the size of SG90 servos. The CAD file is only for reference and I did after designing the pieces by hand on paper to use as a template. I used a sheet of wood about 3 mm of thick. After having the templates the next step is to pass them on to the wooden board.

According to the size of the servo the number of pieces are:

48x A part

6x B

12x C

12x D

12x E

12x F

12x G

12x H

6x I

2x J

Step 2: Time to cut!!!

Tools:

Saw, lime, electric dril and a good hand.

Before cutting some pieces is easier to drill the holes using a 3mm drill. I advise to use a fine saw to cut all the pieces accurately. After cutting each piece filing the edges to be soft.

Step 3: Glue certain parts between them

Tools:

Glue(Superglue for more strength), twezers, toilet paper (to clean the excess glue).

To make the main parts of each leg where the servos are subject I needed to unit 4 A pieces. Then, for each leg glue a piece B with C. And the last thing to be are two H pieces together.

*Be careful to align the holes well of certain pieces or can also be done is glue before and then do drills the holes.

Step 4: Painting and Decorating

Materials and tools:

EVA foam(red and black), glue, scissors, rule, pencil and black acrylic paint.

For a more professional finish I decided paint some of the pieces with black acrylic paint, and the body and legs cover them with black and red eva foam.

Step 5: Attaching the servos to the legs and body

Materials:

A lot of screws, screwdriver and 12 SG-90 servos.

Step 6: Add electronics and connect.

Electronic:

An arduino. USC 16-channel servo controller, UBEC 8A hobbywing, lipo battery.

Power supply:

The servo controller needs two power supplies: servo power supply and chip power supply.

-Servo power supply (+): VS (left of the blue connecting terminal at Position 3 in the figure)
-Servo power supply (‐): GND (middle of the blue connecting terminal at Position 3 in the figure)

Servo power supply’s parameters depend on the parameters of the attached servo. For example, if the SG-90 servo has a power supply of 4V‐5V, the servo power supply can use the power source of 4‐5V.

-Chip power supply (+): VSS (right of the blue connecting terminal at Position 3 in the figure)

-Chip power supply (‐): GND (middle of the blue connecting terminal at Position 3 in the figure)

There is a VSS requirement of 6.5‐12V. If the chip power is input through the VSS port, the power supply has to range from 6.5 to 12V.

Connections Arduino, USC and servos:

What is marked red in the figure are the servo’s connectors for signal wires (be careful about the direction when
connecting to the servo).

To connect the USC controller simple connect de rx of the USC to the tx of arduino and the tx pin with the rx pin of the USC. And connect GND pin of USC with arduino.

rios_usc.exe3 MB

usc_driver.exe1 MB

usc_en.pdf431 KB

Hello, I,m David and in this instructable I`ll show how I made this hexapod whose name is Hexdrake.

Since I was 16 I became interested in electronic and later in robotics. After getting some level and programming skills using arduino I decided to build a robot, but not a simple robot with one pair of wheels, something more interesting. I liked the idea of having a hexapod but did not have much money to buy one.

So I built a low cost 2DOF hexapod made with hand-cut wood and Sg90 servos.

Step 1: Designing the parts and making the templates

I designed the pieces according to the size of SG90 servos. The CAD file is only for reference and I did after designing the pieces by hand on paper to use as a template. I used a sheet of wood about 3 mm of thick. After having the templates the next step is to pass them on to the wooden board.

According to the size of the servo the number of pieces are:

48x A part

6x B

12x C

12x D

12x E

12x F

12x G

12x H

6x I

2x J

Step 2: Time to cut!!!

Tools:

Saw, lime, electric dril and a good hand.

Before cutting some pieces is easier to drill the holes using a 3mm drill. I advise to use a fine saw to cut all the pieces accurately. After cutting each piece filing the edges to be soft.

Step 3: Glue certain parts between them

Tools:

Glue(Superglue for more strength), twezers, toilet paper (to clean the excess glue).

To make the main parts of each leg where the servos are subject I needed to unit 4 A pieces. Then, for each leg glue a piece B with C. And the last thing to be are two H pieces together.

*Be careful to align the holes well of certain pieces or can also be done is glue before and then do drills the holes.

Step 4: Painting and Decorating

Materials and tools:

EVA foam(red and black), glue, scissors, rule, pencil and black acrylic paint.

For a more professional finish I decided paint some of the pieces with black acrylic paint, and the body and legs cover them with black and red eva foam.

Step 5: Attaching the servos to the legs and body

Materials:

A lot of screws, screwdriver and 12 SG-90 servos.

Step 6: Add electronics and connect.

Electronic:

An arduino. USC 16-channel servo controller, UBEC 8A hobbywing, lipo battery.

Power supply:

The servo controller needs two power supplies: servo power supply and chip power supply.

-Servo power supply (+): VS (left of the blue connecting terminal at Position 3 in the figure)
-Servo power supply (‐): GND (middle of the blue connecting terminal at Position 3 in the figure)

Servo power supply’s parameters depend on the parameters of the attached servo. For example, if the SG-90 servo has a power supply of 4V‐5V, the servo power supply can use the power source of 4‐5V.

-Chip power supply (+): VSS (right of the blue connecting terminal at Position 3 in the figure)

-Chip power supply (‐): GND (middle of the blue connecting terminal at Position 3 in the figure)

There is a VSS requirement of 6.5‐12V. If the chip power is input through the VSS port, the power supply has to range from 6.5 to 12V.

Connections Arduino, USC and servos:

What is marked red in the figure are the servo’s connectors for signal wires (be careful about the direction when
connecting to the servo).

To connect the USC controller simple connect de rx of the USC to the tx of arduino and the tx pin with the rx pin of the USC. And connect GND pin of USC with arduino.

rios_usc.exe3 MB

usc_driver.exe1 MB

usc_en.pdf431 KB

Step 7: Programming

Software:

Arduino IDE, USC sofware.

Before programming with arduino is necessary to know the limits of all the servos and know the limits values. For example using the mouse to drag the slider in the servo panel (drag the servo panel corresponding to the channel with which the servo is connected). So connecting the USC inside the hexapod with the usb to the program I get all de max and min values of each servo.

Now is time to program the arduino to control the USC. The servo controller is a slave device, meaning that it can either accept commands or execute preset commands. It cannot think at all. Communication protocol: serial communication (TTL level), baud rate 9600, no check bit, 8 data bits, 1 stop bit To control the servo through the servo controller. The Command format are:

-Control one single servo:

#1P1500T100\r\n

Data 1 refers to the servo’s channel.

Data 1500 refers to the servo’ location, in the range 500‐2500.

Data 100 refers to the time of execution and represents the speed, in the range 100‐9999

-Control multiple servos:

#1P600#2P900#8P2500T100\r\n

Data 1, 2, and 8 refer to the servo’s channels

Data 600, 900, and 2500 refer to the locations of the servos that correspond to three channels

Data 100 refers to the time of execution and represents the speed of three servos. Regardless of the number of servos, there is only one time, or one T. The command is executed at the same time; that is, all servos operate simultaneously.

Within the limits of each servo is necessary to calculate the maximum range or "step" of all horizontal servos to find the smallest of them and convert it as the maximum of one step. And this variable enter into the equations of all movements. The same would have to make with the vertical servos.

Step 8: Adding some personality

I was thinking things I could add to my hexapod and one of the things that came to me were add a good eyes. I decided to add the eyes to hexapod to give more expression to the time to move or express actions. Design sketches on paper of various shapes for the eyes. In the end I decided on the design of the photos.

In the end I decided on the design of the photos. This consists of a strip of 32 blue LEDs around the edge and a matrix of 5 rows and 9 columns of red LEDs. Thus the matrix can display various kinds of pupil and the pupil can move throughout the matrix.

Step 9: Eyes controller board

To control both eyes I designed a simple first version control board based on two atmega8 controlling both matrix directly. In future versions i will do an improved more effective board for complete control of the matrix and the strip of blue LEDs.

Step 10: Adding a Jaw

To make the jaw I did some previous designs in cardboard to find the most correct form to the hexapod. When I found the form, I make the jaw in a small block of aluminum from a heat sink. It is driven by two servos moving together. After, I added it inside a strip of rubber to increase grip, and paint and decorate as the same style of the hexapod.

Step 11: Transport box

Step 12: Final results

This is the final result. In the future i will make actualizations, for example a controller with two joysticks, etc

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