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Wednesday, 12 February 2014

Single digit numitron clock

Numitrons are neat display devices similar to nixie tubes but designed for much lower voltages. Numitrons are basically incandescent displays in which filaments create the segments.
They have a retro look that i liked so much. I bought 6x IV-9 russian numitrons in ebay, they were about 3$ each, they're pretty cheap!
At that time i didn't know what to do with them, but then i thought about a clock. Using software from a single LED display clock i made this impressive numitron clock.

Step 1: Program the PIC

The original purpose of the software was to drive a single common-anode LED display rather than a numitron, but either way works.
The software was modified to flash the digits so the HHMM LEDs wouldn't be necessary. Also the software was modified so if the tens of hours is 0 then it is not displayed.
Moreover, the software does not check the input values so entering the wrong time such as 67:85 would be accepted, but eventually the clock will start resetting the digits correctly.
The clock operates off a PIC 16F84A using a program written by David Tait (software is further down this page). The crystal oscillator for the clock is a 4MHz crystal.
I think another microcontroller such as PIC16F628A could also work fine.

Step 2: The circuit

After testing on the breadboard,  the clock works fine, with the current crystal the clock comes forward a minute each 3 days, with a precision one it can be solved, but it's good enough for me; because setting time is easy.
You can see the test video below and download the eagle schematic to modify it.

Since numitron displays are just complex bulbs, it could be a problem to drive them from the processor, but in this case, it's not a problem:
The PIC16F84A can source or sink 25mA per I/O pin.

But each port has a limit:

Maximum current sunk by PORTA-80 mA
Maximum current sourced by PORTA-50 mA

Maximum current sunk by PORTB-150 mA
Maximum current sourced by PORTB-100 mA

With IV-9/IV-16 each segment draws 20mA, but be careful if you choose another numitron!

Step 3: PCB design

The board measures about 4x3cm (1.6x1.2inches).
it could be way smaller with all components in smd version and onto a double-layer board; but the design i made is the easier/cheaper one.

The board i made the clock with was later modified and optimized.
I used 4 resistors for the HHMM LEDs when a common resistor would do the trick.
I also used a header jumper to switch on or off the numitron, but it turned out that the microcontroller sank the current through ''off'' pins, dimly lighting up some segments.

You can use the PDF to make the circuit with the toner transfer method (see http://www.instructables.com/id/PCB-making-guide/)
Or order it with the .BRD file.

Step 4: Populating the PCB

After drilling the holes and tinning the pads, it's time to populate The PCB.

You'll need the following components:
-PIC16F84A microcontroller (or compatible)
-18 pin DIL socket
-IV-9 or IV-16 numitron (or one of your choice, but check pinout!)
-4 LEDs (just check if they fit)
-4MHz crystal
-2x 470ohm 1206 SMD resistors
-1x 1K5 1206 SMD resistor
-2x male header, or the power input you want
-An SMD capacitor, just for filtering, no matter the value.

First solder the wire jumpers and the SMD components, then the rest. Do it as shown in the diagram (the .BRD file)
Solder just the socket without the PIC in!

If you're using IV-9 or IV-16 numitron, bend the leads as shown in the picture. If you use another numitron, see the datacheet and check if it is pin-compatible, if not, you can edit the PCB or bed the leads as needed.

Step 5: Ready to use

After plugging it, it should display 12:00, set the time by pressing the button when the digit you want to change  is being displayed.
If you press the button during power on, it will enter in test mode.

I can't wait to see how you've done.
If you have any problem or doubt, feel free t ask me.
If someone wants the clock in the video, i would accept 20$.

If you've liked this instructable, please vote me for the Supercharged, 123D Circuits and Spring's Coming contests.

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Jar Lantern



The Jar Lantern is a contemporary take on the traditional gas lantern. It was inspired by seeing sunlight refract through my glass water bottle one afternoon, and thinking to myself that it was a bit like carrying a jar full of light. This brief moment of illumination sparked something in my mind that made me wonder how I could capture this experience more permanently. While trying to bottle light may be a fool's task, I could at least try to recreate the sense of magic I had briefly experienced. After mulling over various methods of accomplishing this, I decided to make a jar with an illuminated floating light bulb. The beauty of this seemingly impossible object is that the light bulb has no clear power source, yet it seems so natural and familiar. The Jar Lantern tends to leave people both taken and dumbfounded by its simplicity.

Step 1: Go Get Stuff

You will need:
(x1) Jar
(x1) CFL Bulb
(x1) Disposable camera
(x1) AA battery holder
(x1) Switch
(x1) Roll of magnet wire

Step 2: Open the Disposable Camera

Open up the disposable camera case. Be mindful not to rouch the large capacitor which could potentially give you a nice jolt.

Step 3: Cut Away the Capacitor and Flash

Discharge the capacitor by bridging the leads with a long screwdriver that you don't care much for. Be careful not to be touching the metal part of the screwdriver while doing this.
Also, cut the flash tube away from the circuit board.

Step 4: Hack a CFL

Use a pair of diagonal cutting pliers to make a hole in the plastic body of a CFL bulb.
Next, use this hole to insert a screwdriver and gently pry the the base apart from the glass tube.
Finally, unwind the CFL tube's wires from the posts on the circuit board.

Step 5: Bridge the Switch

Remove the push tab atop the flash charge switch.
Solder the switch's terminals together.

Step 6: Prep the CFL Bulb

Scrape the coating off the wires coming out of the CFL bulb using a razor blade.
Twist the wires together and tin them with solder.
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Electrocardiograph & Heart Rate Monitor

This project shows you how to make an electrocardiograph and a heart rate monitor. It is intended to be a fun science project only. Of course, it should not serve as a medical purpose.

PLEASE NOTE : To avoid any risk of electric shock, only use battery alimentation. Electrodes are theorically isolated from the circuit by the instrumentation amplifier, but play safe. I'm not responsible for any accident that may happen. 

This is a simple design that fits on a single breadboard. You are free to experiment and to custom it for your needs.


Step 1: List of Materials

- (1) Instrumentation amplifier INA128
- (1) Operational amplifier 741
- (1) Arduino Uno
- (1) 16x2 characters Liquid crystal display
- (1) Voltage regulator 7805
- (1) 8 ohms mini speaker
- (1) Brigth LED (I use a 10 mm one)
- (1) Diode 1N3064
- (2) 9V Batteries with connectors
-  Breadboard
-  Jump wires
Resistors :
- (2) 100 ohms, 1/4W
- (1) 470 ohms, 1/4W
- (1) 1 kiloohms, 1/4W
- (2) 10 kiloohms, 1/4W
- (2) 100 kiloohms, 1/4W
- (1) 1 Megaohms, 1/4W
Capacitors :
- (1) 10 nF
- (1) 47 nF

For the electrodes :
- About one meter of speaker wire
- Antistatic wrist strap
- Medical tape
- Aluminum paper
- (2) metallic paper clips
- Shower gel (a substitute for electrocardiogram gel)

Optional but recommended:
-Oscilloscope, for the electrocardiography part of the device

Step 2: Build the Circuit

Here is the schematic of the circuit and a suggestion of the breadboard implementation. The two electrodes will be plugged on pin 2 and 3 of the INA128. An additionnal reference electrode (an antistatic wrist placed on your right leg) will be plugged in ground. This configuration allows you to use unshielded cables.

The best signal is just after the low-pass filter (between the two 100kOmhs resistors). I suggest that you plug the oscilloscope probe at this point for demonstration, although you might want to check other points to see if everything is working properly.

Step 3: Download Code on the Arduino

Download the attached file on your computer, open it with the arduino IDE, plug your arduino, dowload the sketch and you're ready to go!

Step 4: Make the Electrodes

Firmly attach the two paper clips on the pair of denuded speaker wire. Cut pieces of aluminum paper and clip them in the paper clips. The result should look like the picture. You might also want to experiment to find a better design.
When everything is ready, put some shower gel on the electrodes and use some medical tape in order to stick the result on your chest.

Step 5: Place Electrodes and Play!

Put the antistatic wrist around your right leg and connect it to the circuit ground.

Place the electrodes on your chest and play with them until you get a signal. It could take some time, as the electrical connection is fluctuating. Be patient!

Here is a demonstration of my electrocardiograph :


An interesting thing to do is to experiment with electrode location as you will get a different signal. Professional electrocardiographs use 10 electrodes to map the signal (see the 3rd picture). On the first picture you can see my average electrode placement. This configuration works well because I essentially pick up the ventricular spike that I use for frequency measurement.

Another effect that you can see is the noise caused by movements. The electrodes can pick up electric signals of your muscles. If you want a clean signal, stay still!

Here is the video I've made (in French, sorry!) for my YouTube channel! Enjoy!

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